Visiting The New James Ensor House in Ostend (Belgium)

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Aug 2, 2020
The new James Ensor House is one of Ostend's best things to do

Recently, the James Ensor House in Ostend officially reopened its doors to the public in a fully renewed experience centre. This wholly refurbished experience will shed new light on James Ensor’s life, his artworks and his love for the city where he lived until he passed away: Ostend.

In the interest of discovering your own country, I decided to visit this new James Ensor House. In this post, you will read everything about my experiences; the good, the bad and the ugly.

Spoiler alert: there’s a whole lot of good and almost no bad or ugly.

Skip ahead:

Who was James Ensor?

Ensor’s life story

Portrait of James Ensor by Henry De Groux, 1907

Since I know you didn’t come here for a history lesson, I’ll just give you the quick summary.

James Ensor was born in 1860 to English parents. He initially studied engineering, but quickly lost interest and left school at the age of 15 to pursue his passion for art. Eventually, he would go on to study at the Académie Royale des Beaux-Arts in Brussels, but he didn’t care for the rules and conventions of the Academy.

After leaving the Academy in 1880, Ensor started using the attic of his parents’ house as his art studio. In his artwork, nothing is off-limits – Ensor made his own rules. Critics regarded much of his work at this time as scandalous.

The James Ensor House features an accurate reconstruction of his famous blue living room
The James Ensor House in Ostend features a reconstruction of Ensor’s famous blue living room (het blauwe salon)

In 1888, Ensor painted his most famous work of art: Christ’s Entry into Brussels in 1889.

Ensor died, unmarried, at the age of 89 in Ostend.

Today, his works of art are on display in many leading museums around the world, including the Rijksmuseum (Amsterdam), the Musée du Louvre (Paris), the Museum of Modern Art (New York) and the J. Paul Getty Museum (Los Angeles).

Ensor’s style of painting

One of James Ensor's most recognisable paintings, L'Intrigue (1890)
L’Intrigue, James Ensor, 1890

Ensor’s paintings are easy to recognise by the depiction of skeletons, carnivals, puppetry and masks (which were inspired by the masks sold in his mother’s gift shop).

These works of art can best be described as eccentric and rebellious, a perfect representation of his life in and of itself. Through his art, Ensor criticised the establishment and expressed his outrage at concepts like hypocrisy, abuse of power and injustice.

In the late 19th century, Ensor eventually came into his most creative period. Although he was an atheist, Ensor often referred to and resonated with the suffering of Christ in his paintings.

James Ensor was, and for many remains to be, one of the unsung heroes of modern art. He was one of the driving forces behind artistic styles such as expressionism and surrealism.

What is the James Ensor House?

If you call the James Ensor House a museum, I guarantee that you’ll get a few dirty looks from the people who work there.

I’m just saying.

The new James Ensor House is an interactive experience centre where you can learn about Ensor’s life in a new and exciting way.

Originally, the Ensor Museum was a small museum dedicated to the artworks of James Ensor, but a recent renovation and purchase of the neighbouring building gave this place a major upgrade.

Today, a tailor-made audio guide walks you through five rooms in the James Ensor House, each one dedicated to one specific aspect of Ensor’s life and art. Also included are accurate reconstructions of the house where Ensor lived most of his life, with authentic furniture and artworks.

Your visit comes to an end in the museum itself, where real works of art painted or sketched by Ensor are on display.

How to get to the James Ensor House

The lobby to the James Ensor House in Ostend

There are a few different ways to get to the James Ensor House:

  • By train: Take any IC train to Ostend from Brussels, Antwerp or Kortrijk. The James Ensor House is within walking distance from the train station (12 minute walk).
  • By car: Take the E40 highway from Brussels or take the E17 highway from Antwerp and transfer to the E40. The nearest car parks to the James Ensor House are Indigo Parking Centrum and Parking Kursaal 2, both of which have dedicated parking spaces for people with disabilities.

If you’re not coming by train or by car, pop the following address into your favourite navigation app and follow the directions.

Vlaanderenstraat 29, 8400 Oostende

Discover more about James Ensor in Ostend

Since James Ensor spent most of his life living in Ostend, it should come as no surprise that the city decided to highlight this artist with other initiatives than the James Ensor House.

James Ensor interactive tour

Along with the reopening of the James Ensor House in Ostend, an app was released that will guide you on an interactive Ensor-themed tour through the city

Along with the opening of the James Ensor House, Visit Oostende developed a brand new Ensor-themed walk that takes you to all the locations that played a major role in the artist’s life.

The app that accompanies this walk enables visitors to see the City by the Sea through Ensor’s eyes.

The tour is guided by Ensor himself, who talks about his own tumultuous life, his many friends and the city that stole his heart.

Best of all: the tour is free for anyone who purchased a ticket to the James Ensor House. However, if you only want to do the tour, you’ll have to pay a one-time fee of €5,49.

The app is available in five languages (English, Dutch, French, German and Spanish) and is free to download in the App Store.

Related: The 20 best apps for solo travellers

Mu.ZEE exhibition

Mu.ZEE has a wing dedicated to the works of Ensor and Spilliaert

Mu.ZEE (Ostend’s museum of modern art) has an entire wing dedicated to the works of James Ensor and Léon Spilliaert, another renowned painter from Ostend.

The exhibition, which is titled Two Masters of Ostend, aims to let artworks by Ensor and Spilliaert take the visitor back in time, to the Ostend they knew and loved.

Every work of art on display in this exhibition is accompanied by one or more anecdotes, recounting the lives of people like Edgar Allen Poe and Willy Finch.

Fun facts about James Ensor

  • Ensor inherited the now-called James Ensor House from his aunt and uncle, who sold shells and souvenirs in a small shop downstairs. After they passed away, Ensor kept this store the way it was. However, the shop never opened its doors to the public again.
  • James Ensor painted over 60 self-portraits. He was both confident and very sensitive to criticism.
  • One of Ensor’s absolute highlights of the year was the famed Bal du Rat Mort, an annual masquerade ball in Ostend. He also drew inspiration from this event for his paintings.
  • Critics often claim that the last 50 years of Ensor’s life were nothing but a slow artistic decline.

More information

If you’re still looking for more information for your visit to the new James Ensor House, check out these websites:

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Image credits:

  • Featured image: Image courtesy of Toerisme Oostende vzw
  • 1: Portrait of the artist James Ensor, Henry de Groux, 1907
  • 2: Image courtesy of Toerisme Oostende vzw
  • 3: L’Intrigue, James Ensor, 1890
  • 4: Image courtesy of Toerisme Oostende vzw
  • 5: Image courtesy of Toerisme Oostende vzw
  • 6: Image courtesy of Toerisme Oostende vzw
  • 7: Image courtesy of Toerisme Oostende vzw
  • 8: Image courtesy of Mu.ZEE

20 Cities In Belgium Worth Exploring

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May 17, 2020
Best cities in Belgium to visit (featured: Brussels)

Belgium is a country that is often skipped or used as a stop between other major European cities, such as Paris and Amsterdam. I’m here to convince you that cities in Belgium are worth visiting, too.

Belgium has so much to offer, so it would be a shame to ignore its existence when building a European travel itinerary. We have it all: food that makes your mouth water, beers that have been brewed since the Middle Ages, ancient castles and cobbled streets in medieval cities.

Still wondering why this country is worth exploring? Let me go over some of my favourite cities in Belgium and convince you too.

Skip ahead with these links:

Major cities in Belgium worth a visit

Brussels

  • Things you can’t miss: Grand-Place, Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert, comic strip walk, Royal Museum of Fine Arts
  • How to get there from Brussels: Well, look around you.

How could I start an article about the best Belgian cities and not mention the big B?

Brussels is Belgium’s capital, and if there’s one Belgian city travellers flock to by the thousands, it’s this one.

And there are some good reasons to add Brussels to your Belgian itinerary. Stunning Art Nouveau architecture, impressive museums and a groovy jazz scene are just a few of the things that might convince you.


Ghent

  • Things you can’t miss: Graslei, Ghent Festivities, Patershol, Portus Ganda, Ghent Altarpiece
  • How to get there from Brussels: Take any IC train bound for Ostend, Bruges or Ghent and get off at Gent-Sint-Pieters. (35 minutes)

Among locals, Ghent is mostly known as one of the major student cities in Belgium. But it’s actually much more than that.

Ghent is vibrant, quirky and welcoming to foreigners. It’s budget-friendly, eco-friendly and child-friendly. Ghent spans the bridge between historical and contemporary, and it does that better than any other city I’ve been to.

And no, I’m not overselling the city. I love Ghent with all my heart, and I would recommend it to everyone who hasn’t been to Belgium yet. (And even to people who have visited Belgium in the past!)

Read more: Ghent City Guide, As Told By A Local


Antwerp

  • Things you can’t miss: Grote Markt, Museum aan de Stroom, Cathedral of Our Lady, Ruien
  • How to get there from Brussels: Take any IC train bound for Antwerpen-Centraal. (45 minutes)

As Belgium’s second-biggest city, Antwerp is still too often overlooked by travellers. And that’s a pity.

Antwerp is, beyond a shadow of a doubt, the Belgian capital of cool. The city is filled to the brim with trendy clubs, unique restaurants, authentic vinyl record shops, interesting museums, and more.

As if that wasn’t enough, strolling through Antwerp is also a treat for architecture lovers. The central station is one of the world’s most revered railway stations and the gems of Art Nouveau, Jugendstil and Neo-Classicism can be found all over the city centre.

Oh, and did I mention that Antwerp is the diamond capital of the world?

Read more: Best Restaurants in Antwerp: The Ultimate Foodie Guide


Charleroi

  • Things you can’t miss: Museum of Fine Arts, Bois du Cazier, Charleroi Belfry, walk along the canal
  • How to get there from Brussels: Take any IC train bound for Charleroi-Sud. (1 hour)

Another city that is often overlooked by people from outside of Belgium, and even by people who were born here.

Admittedly, there won’t be as many things to do in Charleroi as in other Belgian cities, such as Bruges and Ghent, but what the city lacks in activities, it more than makes up for in character and history.

If you want to venture even further off the beaten path, go for a walk along the city’s canal and discover Charleroi’s history through its (often abandoned) industrial buildings.


Liège

  • Things you can’t miss: Bueren Mountain, St. Paul Cathedral (don’t miss the Lucifer of Liège!), Fort de la Chartreuse, La Boverie, Liège-Guillemins Railway Station
  • How to get there from Brussels: Take any IC train bound for Welkenraedt, Eupen or Liège-Guillemins and get off at Liège-Guillemins. (1 hour)

Although it is considered one of Belgium’s major cities, you might have never even heard of it if you’re not from around here.

So, when you’re wondering which cities to visit in Belgium, you probably weren’t considering Liège. But you should be.

Liège (or Luik in Dutch) is one of the cultural hotspots of Belgium. There’s a great opera building, a critically acclaimed philharmonic orchestra and countless events highlighting photography, poetry, music and other art forms.

This city is the place to be to discover how different cultures have influenced major Belgian cities in an authentic setting, without thousands of tourists around you.

Best cities in Belgium to enjoy nature

Durbuy

  • Things you can’t miss: Walk through the historic city centre, Adventure Valley (with children), Maize Maze, Topiary Park
  • How to get there from Brussels: Take the IC train bound for Aarlen and get off at Marloie. Transfer to the L train bound for Liers and get off at Barvaux. From Barvaux Gare bus stop, take bus 11a bound for Borlon Centre and get off at Durbuy Pont. (about 3 hours)

Just because Durbuy is the smallest city in the world doesn’t mean it’s not worth a visit. On the contrary: if you explore Durbuy, you’ll find yourself wandering along an inviting labyrinth of winding cobbled streets that will transport you back in time a few hundred years.

As the city is located in the forest of Belgium’s French-speaking region, Wallonia, there are plenty of adventurous activities to try out in and around Durbuy.

Mountain biking, hiking, kayaking, caving, … If you can dream it, you can probably do it in Durbuy.


Spa

  • Things you can’t miss: Domaine de Berinzenne, Casino de Spa, Thermes de Spa, Francorchamps open-air karting
  • How to get there from Brussels: Take any IC train bound for Eupen and get off at Verviers-Central. Transfer to the L train bound for Spa-Géronstère and get off at Spa. (2 hours)
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Even if you didn’t know this was a town in the Belgian Ardenne region, Spa is definitely a word you’re familiar with.

The world’s original spa resort could be found here. It was so popular that Spa became the generic term in English used to describe hydrotherapy.

But Spa is more than a glorified wellness town. Just outside the city centre, you can take a walk in nature reserves, you can go open-air karting and you can visit the oldest casino in Europe.


Best historical cities in Belgium

Leuven

  • Things you can’t miss: Stella Artois brewery, Christmas markets, nightlife, Great Market Square
  • How to get there from Brussels: Take any IC train bound for Liège-Guillemins, Eupen, Welkenraedt, Genk or Landen and get off at Leuven. (25 minutes)

There’s so much to say about Leuven that I already know I’m going to struggle fitting it all in this small text, but I’ll try.

Leuven is one of Belgium’s main university cities. But it’s much more than that: Leuven has a medieval history, fascinating landmarks, a unique atmosphere and many places that are listed as UNESCO World Heritage.

Delve into the city’s student culture by having a beer at the Oude Markt, drinking coffee and eating biscuits at the university hall and visiting the historic university library and tower.


Bruges

  • Things you can’t miss: Medieval city centre, bell tower, Beguinage, chocolate museum
  • How to get there from Brussels: Take any IC train bound for Ostend, Blankenberge, Bruges and get off at Bruges. (1 hour)

They don’t just go around calling any city the Venice of the North. It’s a nickname that has to be earned. And I’ll be damned if Bruges hasn’t earned it.

The city centre is mostly characterised by its picturesque canals and historically accurate building façades. Cobblestone bridges and streets complete the dreamy picture. The atmosphere you feel when walking around here is truly unmatched, even far beyond Belgium’s borders.

Don’t be discouraged by the small size of Bruges: most, if not all, of the people who visited the city before you will recommend it.

Looking for a specific Bruges travel guide? Check out the linked article over at Pink Luggage Abroad.


Ypres

  • Things you can’t miss: In Flanders Fields museum, Last Post, Les Halles, St. George’s Memorial Church
  • How to get there from Brussels: Take the IC train bound for Lokeren and get off at Lokeren. Transfer to the IC train bound for Poperinge and get off at Ypres (Ieper). (3 hours)

In Flanders Fields the poppies blow… And in Ypres you can learn all about that.

Ypres is arguably one of the most significant cities in Belgium in the context of the First World War, and much of the city’s tourism efforts still refer to that. For example, the Last Post is still sounded at the Menin Gate at 8 pm to remember the fallen soldiers of the British Empire and its allies.

Before you attend this daily act of homage, though, you can do several things in Ypres. Learn about the Great War at In Flanders Fields museum and the Yper museum, have a bite to eat at Les Halles, coffee at Mimi’s and take a walk along the ramparts.


Tongeren

  • Things you can’t miss: Gallo-Roman museum, Teseum, De Kevie
  • How to get there from Brussels: Take the IC train bound for Genk and get off at Hasselt. Transfer to the IC train bound for Liège-Guillemins and get off at Tongeren. (2 hours)
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Tongeren is truly one of Belgium’s best hidden gems for history buffs. As the oldest city in Belgium, founded by the Romans themselves in 15 B.C., it’s got plenty of interesting history for you to discover.

Head over to the city’s most prized museum, the Gallo-Roman museum, to learn about human life in Tongeren, from the prehistory to the Roman period.

Alternatively, head to nature reserve De Kevie just outside the city to really disconnect and take a walk without being bothered by anyone or anything.

After that, head to the Basilica of Our Lady to admire one of the largest collections of religious art in and around Belgium at Teseum.

Finish your day at one of Tongeren’s many restaurants, where you can sample local culinary delight.


Namur

  • Things you can’t miss: Citadel, city centre, military & architectural heritage
  • How to get there from Brussels: Take the IC train bound for Luxemburg and get off at Namur (Namen). (1 hour and 15 minutes)

Although it’s the capital city of Belgium’s southern and French-speaking region, Wallonia, Namur is yet to break through to the big audiences.

Founded as a trading settlement in Celtic times, Namur went through a period under Roman rule, until it gained recognition when the Merovingians built a citadel overlooking the city. If you didn’t know any better, you might think this was the castle on the hill Ed Sheeran was singing about.

Namur also has a number of heritage sites of military, architectural and religious significance. Some examples include the Citadel, the forts, the Belfry and the Cathedral of St.-Aubain.

Cities in Belgium to visit without big crowds

Aalst

  • Things you can’t miss: Belfry, town walking trail, specialty tasting
  • How to get there from Brussels: Take any IC train bound for De Panne or Ghent and get off at Aalst. (40 minutes)

Aalst is a city that’s world-famous in Belgium, but not so much outside of this small country.

Aalst is the city of onions (yes, that’s a good thing, at least if you ask the locals) and it’s also the city of the biggest — and most notorious — carnival celebration in Belgium.

When you’re here, you won’t see many other foreigners strolling through the city, unless you visit during Aalst Carnaval. Things tend to get a little crazier during this one weekend in February.

Don’t say I didn’t warn you!


Hasselt

  • Things you can’t miss: Kiewit nature reserve, Jenever Museum, street art tour
  • How to get there from Brussels: Take the IC train bound for Genk and get off at Hasselt. (1 hour 15 minutes)
Hasselt, one of the best cities in Belgium to visit without the big crowds, has the largest authentic Japanese gardens in Europe.

At a train ride of just over one hour from Brussels and with a population of 77 thousand, Hasselt is like the younger brother of many Belgian cities.

Cultural and culinary hotspots are sprawled all along the city centre, and you can even learn about fashion and jenever (gin’s less famous predecessor) in dedicated museums.

If that’s not your thing, be sure to head to the largest authentic Japanese gardens in Europe, which are world-famous – at least in Belgium.


Kortrijk

  • Things you can’t miss: Broel Towers, Beguinage, K in Kortrijk, Baggaertshof
  • How to get there from Brussels: Take any IC train bound for Ostend and get off at Gent-Sint-Pieters. Transfer to the IC train bound for Poperinge and get off at Kortrijk. (1 hour 10 minutes)

Kortrijk is the perfect day trip from any of the major cities in Belgium (Brussels, Antwerp, Ghent and Bruges). It only takes about an hour to get there from Brussels, and there are plenty of things to do, visit, see and eat.

One of the most impressive hidden gems in Kortrijk is Baggaertshof. Founded in 1638 by three sisters, Baggaertshof comprises an inner courtyard, twelve small houses and a gatehouse for poor widows and unmarried women. Today, this is a protected monument and it is often referred to as the ‘second beguinage of Kortrijk’.

For lunch or dinner, Kortrijk has a large variety of restaurants, bistros and eateries. Whether you’re looking for a vegetarian burger, an organic dish or just a good old steak, this city has got you covered.


Dinant

  • Things you can’t miss: Citadel, Castle of Freÿr, hiking in surrounding nature, Maison Leffe
  • How to get there from Brussels: Take the IC train bound for Luxembourg and get off at Brussels-Luxembourg. Transfer to the IC train bound for Dinant. (1 hour 45 minutes)

Located in Belgium’s southern, French-speaking region, Dinant is a city that is packed with history due to its strategic location on the Meuse river. Even today, fortresses, old buildings and a citadel act as reminders of the city’s often bloody history.

Speaking of the Meuse river, take a walk along its banks and you’ll be reminded of the colourful houses in Danish harbours, but slightly more European. (Does that even make sense?)

And, of course, it wouldn’t be a Belgian city if there wasn’t a museum dedicated to one of our national vices: beer. Visit Maison Leffe to find out more about the story behind one of Belgium’s most famous and widespread trappist beers.

Last, but definitely not least, Dinant is the perfect base to discover Belgium’s greenest, most adventurous region: the Ardennes.


Mechelen

  • Things you can’t miss: Dossin Barracks, St. Rumbold’s Tower, Large Beguinage, Palace of Margaret of Austria
  • How to get there from Brussels: Take any IC train bound for Antwerp or Essen and get off at Mechelen. (25 minutes)

Ah, Mechelen. Granted, I may be a bit biased in suggesting this city because I study here, but still. It’s less than half an hour away from Brussels, and it’s packed with things to do.

Start by climbing St. Rumbold’s Tower‘s 538 steps to get the best 360° bird’s eye view of the city. Next, try my personal favourite beer, Gouden Carolus Tripel, at Het Anker brewery. Don’t miss a visit to the Dossin Barracks, which were used as a waiting room for death for more than 25,000 Jews and gypsies during the Second World War.

Finish your visit to Mechelen at the Vismarkt – Fish Market, in English – to blend in with the locals and find Mechelen’s trendiest places to eat, drink and dance until the early hours.

Seaside cities in Belgium worth visiting

Oostende

  • Things you can’t miss: The Crystal Ship, Mercator, Fort Napoleon, Raversyde
  • How to get there from Brussels: Take any IC train bound for Oostende. (1 hour 15 minutes)

Oostende is known colloquially as the queen of the Belgian seaside cities, and that’s not an accident. It’s definitely the liveliest city along the Belgian coast, and it’s located right in the centre.

The city centre has historic roots that go back to the middle ages, but today, it is modern and eccentric. There is a huge street art walk through the whole city, and more locations are added each year. There are plenty of other themed walks, so there is definitely something for everyone.

If you’re into art, you may also want to check out the renewed James Ensor House – the house where painter James Ensor worked and lived, preserved in its original state.

When it’s time to grab a bite, try Histoires d’O‘s home made shrimp croquettes, head to Moose for a fantastic Scandinavian-themed lunch or try one of Café Botteltje‘s sixteen tap beers.


De Haan

  • Things you can’t miss: Stay at a B&B, unwind, walk on the beach, rent a bike
  • How to get there from Brussels: Take the IC train bound for Blankenberge and get off at Blankenberge. Transfer to the Kusttram bound for Oostende Station and get off at De Haan Aan Zee. (2 hours 11 minutes)

When you go to De Haan, you’re really there to relax. Since there’s not that much to do here, you might as well disconnect, put your phones away and enjoy each other’s company.

Go for a walk on the beach, rent a bike and discover your surroundings with your loved ones. Head to Aan Tafel or B.A.Z. for dinner, and count on your own B&B for a fabulous breakfast the next day.


Nieuwpoort

  • Things you can’t miss: Marina, De IJzermonding nature reserve, visitor’s centre Westfront
  • How to get there from Brussels: Take any IC train bound for Oostende and get off at Oostende. Transfer to the Kusttram bound for De Panne Station and get off at Nieuwpoort Stad. (2 hours 30 minutes)

Nieuwpoort (or New Port, as it might be translated to English) is one of my favourite coastal cities in Belgium. And, the funny thing is, I can’t really seem to explain why.

It’s just a vibe I get when I visit this city. It’s urban, but quiet. History is all around you, but the city still feels modern. I guess it’s just something you have to experience to understand what I’m talking about.

Either way, when you’re here, check out the fish auction and Jan Fabre’s giant golden turtle (yes, really!) called Searching for Utopia, and go shopping at the main shopping street.


If, after reading this, you’re still wondering which cities in Belgium are worth a visit, I don’t know what to tell you.

If, however, I have been able to spark your interest in Belgian cities, be sure to let me know! Tweet at me, leave a comment down below or send me a message.

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Wardija Punic Temple: Everything You Need To Know

by , on
Jun 2, 2019
Wardija Punic Temple, a promontary on a Maltese cliff

On my second solo trip ever, I slept on top of a cliff in Malta, overlooking the Mediterranean Ocean. I got to know the beauty of Wardija Punic Temple. If you want to have that same experience, keep reading.

If you’re ever in Malta, you really should consider giving Wardija a visit and maybe even sleeping there, overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and feeling the wind on your skin.

Disclaimer: since I took the photos in this post with my smartphone when I was visiting Malta in 2017, the quality won’t be great. I’m sorry about that, but there’s really not much I can do about it until I go back to Wardija.

Today, I’ll go over everything you need to know to experience this for yourself. How to get there, what to do, and why you should do it.

Let’s start with the basics.

What is Wardija Punic Temple?

The thing is, I’m not quite sure.

According to Wikipedia, Wardija Punic Temple – also known as Ras il-Wardija among the locals – is a promontory on the southeast coast of Gozo.

If you’re not sure what that means, that’s okay. Neither am I. I’d describe Wardija as a temple, a cave, an archaeological site – anything but a promontory. But that might just be because English is not my first language.

Wardija Punic Temple, an archaeological site on Gozo (Malta)

When my Airbnb host, Daniel (who’s now running a successful co-working space in Valletta, by the way), told me about this place, I was instantly sold to the idea.

Bonus: sign up to Airbnb through this link and get up to $40 of travel credit for your first booking!

He told me that someone who stayed in his Airbnb a few weeks before I did had discovered this place and had spent the night there. And so, Daniel told me everything I needed to know before sleeping at Wardija.

Now, I’m here to pass on my knowledge to you.

Make sure you bring some kind of blanket and something to sleep on, like a towel.

Here we go.

How to get to Wardija Punic Temple

On the map below, you can see the exact location of Wardija Punic Temple. While this can be useful in and of itself, I’d also like to give you a little bit of explanation about how I got there, and how you can get there, too.

Getting to Wardija by car

Arriving at this place is substantially easier if you have a rental car – or, better yet, if you’re from Malta and you have your own car available.

If you don’t, scroll down just a little bit and read more about getting there with public transport.

If you do, here’s what you want to do, supposing you’re coming from Malta’s capital, Valletta.

  • Drive to Cirkewwa, in the north of the main island;
  • Take the ferry from Cirkewwa to Mgarr (don’t worry, you can take your car);
  • Drive from Mgarr;
  • Follow the route pictured below to get from Mgarr to Wardija;
  • Walk the last part.

Getting to Wardija by public transport

Preface: I would recommend departing from Valletta in the early afternoon if you want to be able to see the sunset. Not only that, but the last part of your journey would be quite dangerous without any sunlight.

That being said, you should look up when the sun sets on the day of your big adventure and leave at least four hours before that.

  • Take bus 42 (bound for Cirkewwa) from Valletta terminal B6 to Cirkewwa Alight;
  • Walk to the passenger terminal at Cirkewwa;
  • Take the ferry from Cirkewwa to Mgarr (which will cost €4,65 for a one-way trip);
  • Take bus 323 (bound for Victoria) from Vapur to Victoria Bay 4;
  • Transfer to bus 311 (bound for Dwejra) from Victoria Bay 1 to Dwejra;
  • Follow the route pictured below to get from the last bus stop to the temple.

Side note: I’m aware that it’s a 40 minute walk, but it’s worth it. Trust me on this one.

Before starting your big trek from the Dwejra bus stop, you may want to consider doing a few things.

Firstly, take a look at the old site of the Azure Window. The steep rocks, the crystal blue water and the sharp cliffs in the background all look amazing and are worth some time.

You’ll be able to see this site from up above when you’ve arrived at Wardija, but it’s that much more impressive up close.

Secondly, have some dinner at the Azure Window restaurant. Unless you brought your own food, this is going to be your last meal until you get back to the civilised world tomorrow morning. (I had the pepperoni pizza and it was great)

What to do around Wardija Punic Temple

To be honest, there’s not a whole lot to do here.

But there are some pretty great things that you can do here, and not in a lot of other places.

First of all, admire the views. Since there’s not much to do around you anyway, why not take some time to really take in the landscape around you?

I’ll just let the pictures do the talking here.

The photo above is the view from down below, looking at what used to be the Azure Window. Although it collapsed in a storm in 2017, it’s still gorgeous.

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Okay but this view though 🌈

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Aside from the actual image quality, this is one of my favourite shots I’ve ever taken. And that’s only partly because I have some very fond memories when looking back at this.

Next up: watch the sunset.

Just outside the temple, there are a few places where you can sit down, unwind, and enjoy the view of the sun setting over the ocean.

After the sun has set, now it’s time to really start doing things you’ve never done before.

Put on some good music and dance. Sing and dance like nobody’s watching.

You’re 40 minutes away from the nearest bus stop, so, chances are, nobody IS watching.

Finally, once you’ve danced your heart out – or once your phone battery dies, like mine did – it’s time to go to sleep.

Sleeping in a Maltese temple

When I was at Wardija, it took me about an hour to fall asleep. I had noticed beetles crawling out of a crack in the wall, and that unsettled me a bit. But if I can sleep through that, I’m sure you can, too.

I woke up around 6 am, and then again around 7 and around 8. I finally decided to get up around 8:30, and while I was brushing my teeth, a Spanish man and his daughter were hiking around. We talked for a little while and they were on their way.

Finally, I got back to my Airbnb by following the same route in reverse.

And that, dear friends, is the story of how I slept in a temple on top of a Maltese cliff (and how you can do the exact same thing).

Some more things to keep in mind:

  • Wardija Punic Temple and the land around it are privately owned, but it’s very unlikely that the owner will have anything against you staying there if you ask him for permission. His name is George Spiteri.

Disclaimer: I tried to contact Mr Spiteri to ask for permission to post this article, but he hasn’t responded so far. If he does end up responding and doesn’t give me permission, I’ll delete this post.

  • As I mentioned earlier, there might be beetles crawling around the temple. If you’re very scared of them, I wouldn’t recommend going for this experience.

  • Since this place is privately owned, please be respectful. Leave nothing but footprints and take nothing but pictures.

  • If you end up sleeping in Wardija, it can get cold, especially if the wind is coming at you head-on. Bring enough clothes and blankets to keep you warm through the night.

Would you ever do something like this? If you wouldn’t, what do you feel is stopping you?

Thanks for reading!

-S


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Budget Solo Travel in Dublin: Travel Tips and Tricks

by , on
Apr 25, 2019
View of the river Liffey at night (Dublin, Ireland)

While Ireland is by no means a cheap country to visit, it is possible to visit Dublin on a shoestring budget. The Irish capital was the first destination I ever visited solo, and this comprehensive solo travel guide will give you the best Dublin travel tips to make your trip there the adventure of a lifetime.

A comprehensive Dublin solo travel guide

If you’re planning your first solo trip and you’re considering Dublin as a destination, you’ve already made a great call. I know how you feel and I know how scary it can be. But I strongly believe that travelling alone can change your life.

My first solo trip was in Dublin, and I made a lot of mistakes while I was there. But still, I believe these mistakes were more due to my lack of experience than to the destination’s welcoming.

Because solo travel in Ireland is amazing.

View of the river Liffey at night (Dublin, Ireland)

These Dublin travel tips are here to show you why that is and to make sure that you don’t make the same mistakes I did.

Check out the embedded map below for everything that is mentioned in this blog post (or click here if the map doesn’t load correctly):


This Dublin travel guide for solo travellers will consist of the following sections (click through if you’re only interested in a specific topic!):

Getting around Dublin

How to get from Dublin Airport to the city

Dublin Airport is located about 10 km north of the city centre. When you arrive at the airport, you have four main options to get you to the city itself:

  • Airlink / 747 (express public bus)
  • Aircoach (express private coach)
  • Dublin Bus (public bus)
  • Taxi

Airlink / 747 (express public bus)

Airlink, also known by its route number (747), is an express public bus service operated by Dublin Bus. It’s one of the fastest ways to get from Dublin airport to the city. Buses between the airport and the city centre run up to every 10 minutes. Airlink has main stops at Busaras, O’Connell Street and Heuston.

The fare is covered by the Leap Visitor Card (see below). But if you don’t have that card, a return fare will set you back €10. You can purchase Airlink tickets online, at information desks at the airport, at vending machines outside the bus terminal or in cash, on board the bus.

Aircoach (express private coach)

Aircoach (bus line 700) is an express private coach service that runs between Dublin airport and the city centre. This service tends to be a bit faster than Airlink, but it’s also more expensive. Buses between the airport and the city run every 15 minutes.

Aircoach fares are not covered by the Leap Visitor Card. Tickets for a return trip cost €12 and can be purchased online, at the Aircoach departure desk at Dublin Airport or in cash, on board the bus.

Check the official website for Aircoach timetables.

Dublin Bus (public bus)

This is the cheapest way to get from the airport to the city centre, as a single fare will only cost you €3,30. There are two high-frequency buses (running every 10-30 minutes) from the airport to the city: bus 41 bound for Lower Abbey Street and bus 16 bound for Ballinteer.

The Leap Visitor Card covers this bus, but if you have one, you might as well opt for the Airlink, which has fewer stops along the way. But keep in mind: if you’re taking the Dublin Bus and you’re paying in cash, make sure you have the exact coins! The bus driver is unable to give you any change.

Taxi

If you don’t feel comfortable on a public bus, there’s also this option. Taking a private, metered taxi from Dublin airport to the city costs about €25-30. I wouldn’t recommend this if you’re on a budget, but if you feel like splurging, be my guest. Taxis queue up just outside Terminal 1, Arrivals level.

These boots were made for walkin’

Although Dublin is the biggest and most populous city of Ireland, it’s still very walkable. Especially if you’re travelling alone and you don’t really have anything else to do, you might as well take a walk.

Man walking on a road through the forest

If you don’t have much time in Dublin – when you’re only there for a layover, for example – it’s a good idea to take a walking tour to explore the city’s main sights. Take a self-guided walking tour of Dublin with this article as a guide, or take a free (tip-based) guided walking tour.

Life is better on a bike

Looking for something more active than walking around the city? Why not rent a bicycle?

Man riding bicycle on city streets

The most popular rental bike scheme in Dublin is Dublinbikes. There are 115 docking stations spread around the city, with a maximum capacity of 15 bikes each. Every docking station also comes with a payment terminal, where you can purchase a 3 day ticket.

In order to use the system, you’ll need to take out a subscription. Don’t worry, it sounds more serious than it actually is: a 3-day subscription only costs €5. The first 30 minutes of each journey are free, and a service charge applies after that.

Check Dublinbikes’ official website for more information.

Public transport

But of course, not everyone wants to walk or feels comfortable walking alone in a foreign city. For those people, there are three main options for public transport in Dublin.

  • The vast Dublin Bus network will get you to most of the main attractions in Dublin.
  • The trams in Dublin are called Luas, which translates to ‘speed’ in Irish. There are two tram lines across the city: the red line and the green line.
  • The DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transport) can be used to reach more off-beat attractions and places around Dublin, like Howth and Malahide.

As for payment for the buses, trams and DART in Dublin, there are also three options:

  • One of the best Dublin travel tips I can give you is to buy a Leap Visitor Card. This card gives you unlimited acces to Airlink, Dublin Bus, Go-Ahead Ireland routes in Dublin, Luas, DART and Commuter Rail. This is the most efficient option for public transport as a visitor. There are options for one day, three days or seven days.
  • Buy a TFI Leap Card and top up in €5 increments in local shops. This is a useful option if you’re not sure how often you’ll use public transport.
  • Pay your ticket in cash at a ticketing machine (Luas & DART stops) or by putting coins into a slot by the bus driver.

Where to drink in Dublin

It’s true: the Irish are infamous among Europeans for their drinking culture. Many drinks, like stout (e.g. Guinness) and whiskey (e.g. Jameson) are produced in Ireland, and the Irish are notoriously good at enjoying a drink every now and then.

For that reason, here’s a list of the top pubs in Dublin to have a drink at as a solo traveller. Because what would a list of Dublin travel tips be without drinking recommendations?

The Temple Bar

The iconic red outdoors of the Temple Bar (Dublin, Ireland)
Photo courtesy of This Travel Lover

Although it’s often been called a tourist trap, I truly believe that the OG Temple Bar is an iconic place to visit when you’re travelling to Dublin. It has a strong reputation for its great atmosphere and live music. And, more importantly, you won’t have any problems striking up a conversation with a stranger as a solo traveller. Just keep an eye on your tab, since staff tend to increase the price of your drinks over time.

The Brazen Head

Founded in the 12th century, The Brazen Head has a reputation as Ireland’s oldest pub. Live music is played here regularly, so check the website to find out if anyone’s playing when you’re there. Beside their extensive collection of Irish whiskies, gins and vodkas, traditional Irish dishes like beef & Guinness stew and smoked cod are also served at the Brazen Head.

Token

As they describe themselves, Token is a restaurant, bar, retro arcade, pinball parlour and event space – all in one. Obvious highlights here are the retro game machines and pinball lounge in the basement. You can come here for a drink and some games without reservations, but just don’t forget to try some food (check out the extensive vegan and gluten-free options!).

Long Hall

Not to be confused with the Long Hall at Trinity College, the Long Hall pub has been one of Dublin’s best loved pubs since 1766. Often described as ‘an actual traditional Irish pub’, this place is definitely worth some time to enjoy a cold pint of Guinness.

P.Macs

P.Macs (also P’Macs and P.Mac’s) is one of Dublin’s newest pubs, but that doesn’t take away from its appeal. Some keywords here: friendly staff, soft rock, craft beers and candlelit tables. Need I say more?

Bernard Shaw

The Bernard Shaw is more than just another bar – it’s an art space, pizza bus, beer gardens, event space and so much more. Whenever you’re in Dublin, something is on at Bernard Shaw. Not to mention the drinks are cheap and the atmosphere is incredibly vibrant and hip.

Where to eat in Dublin

Restaurant / Bar 'Open' sign

Of course, a big part of travelling is finding places to eat. Here’s an overview of the best places to eat in Dublin, sorted by category.

Note: all of these suggestions are great for solo travellers, and they won’t dent your food budget too much.

Where to stay in Dublin

Here are a few tips on where to stay in Dublin as a solo traveller.

One of my best Dublin travel tips: check out the iconic Ha'penny Bridge that runs across the river Liffey
Photo courtesy of Wanderlust Marriage

Don’t stay in Temple Bar

One of my most important Dublin travel tips: don’t stay in Temple Bar.

While many online articles and blog posts will try to convince you that Temple Bar is a great neighbourhood to stay, it’s not true. Especially not for solo travellers. And while these neighbourhoods will likely stay popular among tourists, you can be smarter than that.

For starters, staying in a neighbourhood that is literally the city centre will be expensive. You’ll be paying more than what you’d pay in a neighbourhood that was located slightly outside the city centre.

Secondly, good luck trying to fall asleep to the sound of drunk twenty-somethings and smashing glasses.

Stay just outside the city centre

If you want to stay in a central location without paying too much, look for places around the canals (Grand Canal to the south, Royal Canal to the north).

This way, you’ll still be at a walkable distance to the centre, but you won’t have any of the drawbacks – like the high prices and the noise.

Hostels in Dublin for solo travellers

And, of course, hostels are still a very popular accommodation option for budget solo travellers.

Here’s an overview of some of the best Dublin hostels, keeping in mind the fact that you’re travelling alone and that you’re on a budget.

Airbnb for solo travellers in Dublin

Although Airbnb might not be the best option for solo travellers – especially not in Dublin, since the tax authorities have been taking note of addresses – you might still be lucky and strike a bargain.

New to Airbnb? Sign up here for up to €30 off your first booking!

It’s definitely still worth checking out the website. Take a look at the following neighbourhoods. They’re a little further outside the centre, but they’re still easy walking distances.

  • Phibsborough
  • Ranelagh
  • Donnybrook
  • Ballsbridge

Dublin things to do as a solo traveller on a budget

Arguably the most significant Dublin travel tips I could give you are these: how to fill your days in the Irish capital as a shoe string solo traveller.

Libraries, tours and museums in Dublin

Here’s an overview of the best museums and tours in Dublin to visit as a solo traveller:

The Long Room at Trinity College, Dublin (Ireland)
Photo courtesy of Passport and Piano
  • National Museum of Ireland – Archaeology: learn about iconic artefacts from Ireland’s fascinating history, the story of Irish Vikings and visit the Ancient Egypt exhibition in this free museum.
  • National Museum of Ireland – Natural History: this free museum, also known as the Dead Zoo among Dubliners, shows you the wonders of taxidermy, but in the best way possible.
  • The Book of Kells Exhibition: located in the Long Room at Trinity College, this is one of Dublin’s most popular attractions. And among the dusty bookshelves in the library, you’ll find the world’s most famous medieval manuscript. (buy tickets online)
  • Chester Beatty Library: described by Lonely Planet as one of the best museum in Europe, this free library focuses on understanding world cultures through manuscripts and rare books.
  • Kilmainham Gaol Museum: this museum shows you what it was like to live behind bars in Ireland in the 19th-20th century and it’s definitely worth the €8 (€4 for students) entry fee. (buy tickets online)
  • Guinness Storehouse tour: the tour of the Guinness breweries will reward you with the fascinating history of Ireland’s most iconic stout, a free pint and a 360° view over Dublin at the end of the tour. (buy tickets online)

Don’t forget to check the official websites to make sure the museum is open when you want to visit, since many of them are closed on Monday.

Free things to do in Dublin

But the museums I mentioned above are not the only free things to do in Dublin. There are some other free activities in Dublin worth checking out:

  • Get lost. Wander around Dublin’s little streets and see where the wind takes you. Some great starting points: Ha’penny Bridge, George’s Street Arcade, Fade Street & South William Street
  • Free walking tours. Dublin Free Walking Tour offers two daily guided tours to help you discover the best of the hidden city.
  • Trinity College. Although there are student-led walking tours available, it won’t cost you anything to walk around the campus grounds on your own.
  • Phoenix Park. Walking around one of Europe’s biggest public parks in a major city is free and the perfect scenery for some deer chasing.

Where to relax in and around Dublin

Courtyard outside St. Patrick's Cathedral in Dublin (Ireland)
Photo courtesy of This Travel Lover

Because a city trip to a place like Dublin can feel quite overwhelming at times, you might need some time to take a breath and unwind. These places are perfect for that:

  • St. Stephen’s Green (fabulous but busy)
  • Iveagh Gardens (centrally located but small)
  • Dollymount Strand (combine with a day trip to Howth)
  • Sandymount Strand (quiet and accessible)
  • Killiney Beach (for a day trip to Killiney)

When to visit Dublin

Don’t visit Dublin around Christmas. Chances are that stores and attractions will be closed on Christmas Day, Boxing Day (26 December), New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day.

For the best weather, you’ll want to be in Dublin anywhere between May and September, with July and August as the best – but also the most expensive – months.

Dublin travel tips

Now that you know where to stay, where to eat, where to drink, what to do and when to visit Dublin, it’s time for some miscellaneous travel tips about Dublin to make your next adventure that much more unforgettable.

Bring a reusable tote bag. If you intend to do any shopping at all, make sure you have a reusable bag with you. There is a plastic bag levy in Dublin and most retailers only provide heavy-duty bags, which cost a lot.

Let your pint of Guinness settle. If there’s one way that Dubliners pick up outsiders, it’s this. There’s a whole science to pouring the perfect pint of Guinness, and the two-minute settle time (well, 199.5 seconds, actually) is an essential part of it.

Tip 10% in restaurants. Tipping is not as compulsory as it is in places like the United States, but a 10% is expected. If the service you received was exceptional, you could tip 20% or even more.

Take a day trip to Howth. If you’ve still got one day left in your travel itinerary that you have no idea how to fill in, consider a day trip to this nearby fishing village. There are plenty of things to do in Howth!

Check out Guinness’ secret brewery. On Thursday, Friday and Saturday, Guinness operates a ‘secret’ brewery, called Open Gate Brewery, at St. James Gate. Brewers get to experiment with different beer types, ingredients and flavours, and you can also get some food there. You do have to book tickets in advance, though. (Entry ticket + tasting paddle with 4 beer samples: €9)


Now you know why Dublin has been one of my favourite places to travel solo in Europe ever since I stepped foot in the Irish capital.

Are there any Dublin travel tips I missed? Would you add anything else to a Dublin itinerary? Let me know in a comment down below.

Thanks for reading!

-S

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links, meaning that if you make a purchase through one of these links, I will receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for supporting Ars Currendi!


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3-Day Solo Berlin Itinerary: Exploring Hidden Gems in Berlin

by , on
Feb 21, 2019

With over 3.5 million inhabitants, Berlin is one of the biggest cities in Europe. Besides heavy traffic and a very well-thought-out public transport system, that means that there is a lot to do here. The reasons why you should visit Berlin will quickly become clear if you keep reading. This is my three-day, off-the-beaten-path Berlin itinerary for solo travellers.

Note: this post will be something between ‘what I did in Berlin’ and ‘what you should do in Berlin’. That being said, if I recommend a hostel, a restaurant, a café or an activity, it’s because I enjoyed it there. But it’s also because that’s what I did. Feel free to use this Berlin itinerary as a starting point and make your own travel itinerary according to your wants and needs.

I was in Berlin in February 2019, from Monday until Friday. However, I didn’t really get to do any things worth mentioning on Monday or on Friday because of my flight times. For that reason, I’m only including three full days in this itinerary.

This 3-day Berlin itinerary will give you a good idea of what to do in Berlin and what you can expect on a trip to the German capital.

General tips for your first solo trip to Berlin

  • Get a Berlin WelcomeCard (purchase online and print it at home). This will give you unlimited access to public transport (U-Bahn, S-Bahn, trams and buses). Order online and print your ticket. Show it to the bus driver upon boarding and show it to Kontrolleurs (who may be dressed in ordinary clothes) when they ask for your ticket on the U-Bahn, S-Bahn or tram.
  • If you’re flying into and from Schönefeld Airport (SXF), get a WelcomeCard for zone ABC. If you’re using Tegel Airport (TXL), you only need zone AB.
  • Talk to people. As on any solo trip, you don’t want to be isolated from the world around you. German people are really friendly and accepting towards foreigners – even though the tone of their language might suggest otherwise.
  • If you’re a student, bring your student ID. You can get discounts on several attractions (including many museums and guided tours) if you can prove that you’re a student.

A three-day solo Berlin itinerary – off the beaten track

Day 1: the Berlin essentials

An artsy back alley in Berlin's city centre

Visiting Berlin off-the-beaten-path doesn’t mean that you can’t visit popular tourist attractions. It just means that you don’t want to spend your entire trip looking at them.

If you’re like me, you’re not fundamentally against popular attractions. You don’t stay away from the Eiffel Tower in Paris or Dam Square in Amsterdam just because many people visit them. After all, there’s a reason why tourist attractions are so popular.

So, since these attractions are still appealing, even when thousands of people lay eyes upon them every day, we’re going to cram the most important sights of Berlin into one day.

Day 1: Morning

After settling into Berlin, you’re going to check out a guided tour of Berlin during the wars of the 20th century.

  • Walk to Oranienburger Straße Station and take the S2 train bound for S Bernau Bhf. Get off at Gesundbrunnen Station. Walk to Berliner Unterwelten e.V.
  • Join a guided tour of the underground world of Berlin during the World Wars and the Cold War. Check the times on their website and plan accordingly. (I was here on a Tuesday and I joined Tour 3. Would highly recommend this one!)
  • Find a place to have lunch. If you’re not looking for gastronomical options, the mall near Gesundbrunnen Station (called Gesundbrunnen Center) has a KFC, a McDonald’s, a Subway and some non-chain restaurants.

Day 1: Afternoon

Now it’s time for the bare Berlin essentials. DDR Museum, Bebelplatz, Gendarmenmarkt, Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, Brandenburger Tor and Reichstag Building. It’s going to be a busy afternoon.

Note: I didn’t include Checkpoint Charlie in this day (or anywhere else in this Berlin itinerary) because I personally believe it’s not worth a visit. It’s become too much of a tourist trap recently and it’s supposedly really underwhelming.

  • Get back to Gesundbrunnen Station and take the U8 train bound for S+U Hermannstraße. Get off at Weinmeisterstraße and walk to the DDR Museum.
  • If you’re into history, visit the interactive DDR Museum. If you’re not, skip this step and move on to the next one.
  • Walk to Bebelplatz and have a quick look at the impressive university buildings (law faculty) scattered around you.
Humboldt University Law Faculty at Bebelplatz (Berlin)
  • Continue walking to Gendarmenmarkt and check out the Französischer Dom, Deutscher Dom and the Berlin Concert Hall.
  • Walk to the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. Walk through the memorial stones and visit the exhibition centre if you’re interested. (I skipped the exhibition). Keep in mind that this is a memorial to people who were murdered – be respectful, don’t make too much noise and don’t run around.
Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, something that can't miss in your Berlin itinerary
  • Walk to Brandenburger Tor and the Reichstag Building. Take some pictures for your Instagram story.
  • Head back to your hostel / hotel / Airbnb (get €30 off your first booking!) / Couchsurfing host and freshen up. Take a shower, drink some water, and relax for a bit.
  • Grab some typical Berlin food at Die Berliner Republik. I recommend the Flammkuchen – something like pizza, but with thinner dough and different toppings. (This restaurant also has a ‘stock exchange’ system for beer prices. You can really strike a bargain here!)
  • Walk or take public transport back to your accommodation. This is a good time to Skype a friend, update your blog (like I am literally doing right now), or just relax and watch some Netflix.
  • Don’t go to bed too late, because you’re getting up early tomorrow. 😉

Day 2: abandoned buildings and street art in Berlin

The front of an abandoned children's hospital called Kinderkrankenhaus Weißensee (Berlin)

I told you to get up early, right? You’ll see why that is if you just keep reading. But let me tell you: it’ll be worth it.

Day 2: Morning

This morning, your main project is to visit the abandoned children’s hospital Kinderkrankenhaus Weißensee. You might think “But why would I want to visit a place like that?” and the answer is simple. Street art.

Related: Why I decided to visit an abandoned children’s hospital

  • Get breakfast at Zeit für Brot. I highly recommend the apple cinnamon bun and the one with white chocolate. Yes, I had both. Yes, I had a food coma after that.
  • Take the bus from Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz to Mollstr./Otto-Braun-Str. Station and transfer to the M4 tram bound for Falkenberg. Get off at Buschallee/Hansastraße.
  • Take a short walk until you reach Kinderkrankenhaus Weißensee.
  • From the main entrance, it might look like you won’t be able to get into the domain, but keep walking along the street until you reach the entrance to an athletic field called ‘Stadion Buschallee’. From the side, you can get into the hospital fields by jumping over a fence (which won’t go smoothly – I’m speaking from experience).
  • Explore the abandoned hospital buildings but don’t let curiosity get the upper hand on your personal safety. Stay cautious.
One of the entrances of an abandoned children's hospital in Berlin
  • From Buschallee – Hansastraße, take the M4 tram back to Alexanderplatz and buy lunch at the food court in the Galeria Kaufhof mall.

Related: Food courts in Japanese department stores

Day 2: Afternoon

The next things you should be looking forward to are a free alternative walking tour, guided by locals, and an exhibition about the human body.

  • Meet your Alternative Berlin tour guide in front of the Starbucks at Alexanderplatz at 1 pm.
  • Based on who is your tour guide, you will see some side of Berlin. My tour was guided by an artist named Ben from New Zealand. His tour was focused on the history of street art and the underground scene in Berlin.
  • After your tour finishes, make sure you tip your tour guide, because this is their main job in many cases. I wouldn’t go any lower than €10.
  • Make your way back to Alexanderplatz. My tour ended close to Ostbahnhof, so I took an S3 train to Jannowitzbrücke and transferred to the U8 train to Alexanderplatz.
  • Climb up the first set of stairs (don’t go inside!) of the Television Tower and get up to the Menschen Museum.
  • Check out the Körperwelten (Body Works) exhibition.
One of the human bodies of the Körperwelten exposition in Berlin
  • Hang around at Alexanderplatz for a while and watch people interact with each other and with the city.
  • Head back to where you came from by taking a U8 train to Jannowitzbrücke and transferring to an S5 train to Warschauer Straße.
  • Walk to Seoulkitchen and have dinner there. (I’d recommend the chicken ramen bowl, but you know, take whatever you feel like. You’re a solo traveller, damn it.)
  • Get back to your hostel or apartment and chill. Maybe get some beers at the bar or check out an open mic comedy night.

Day 3: More abandoned buildings and street food

The last day of this Berlin itinerary will have you exploring some famous abandoned sites in Berlin, as well as checking out an iconic remainder of the Cold War and an indoor street food market.

A view of Teufelsberg, an abandoned spy station just outside Berlin city centre

Day 3: Morning

  • Get breakfast at Grand Bar. If you’re staying in Generator Berlin Mitte, like I was, it’s just across the street. If not, make your way to Oranienburger Straße by S-Bahn. Don’t bother coming here before 9 am, because it won’t be open. Just saying.
  • Take the M1 tram from Oranienburger Straße to Friedrichstraße and transfer to the S9 train bound for S Spandau Bhf. Get off at Heerstraße.
  • Walk along a street called Teufelsseechaussee until you reach the second car parking on your right. Walk through the parking and follow the path through the forest.
  • Hike to the top of Teufelsberg, a man-made hill built with the rubble from destroyed buildings that houses an old U.S. spy station and a Nazi military-technical college. Walk through the abandoned buildings.
The main dome of Teufelsberg, an abandoned spy station built on an artificial hill just outside Berlin
  • Take the S3 train to Friedrichstraße Station. Find some place to get lunch (on this day, my lunch was two granola bars I brought from home).

Day 3: Afternoon

  • Transfer to the U6 train bound for U Alt-Mariendorf. Get off at Bhf Paradestraße.
  • Walk into Tempelhof Field, Berlin’s old main airport that was closed and turned into a public park in 2008.
Tempelhof Airport, which used to be one of the main airports of Berlin until it was closed down in 2008
  • From Bhf Paradestraße, take the U6 train bound for U Alt-Tegel to Hallesches Tor. Transfer to the U1 train bound for S+U Warschauer Straße and get off at the last stop.
  • Walk to Urban Spree, a contemporary art gallery (or, as the website describes it, an “artistic space (…) dedicated to urban cultures through exhibitions, artist residencies, DIY workshops, concerts, an art store and a large Biergarten”).
  • Go to the supermarket across the street called REWE and buy yourself a Berliner.
  • Walk down to the iconic East Side Gallery and admire the art and what it stands for. This is a good time to take some more pictures for your Instagram story.
Some of the art spray painted on the infamous East Side Gallery in Berlin
  • By now it’s probably around 4 pm. On your way to the next – and last – attraction of the day, stop at Burgermeister (Schlesisches Tor). This is a burger restaurant located under the train tracks. Don’t worry, it’s nowhere near as dirty as it sounds and I’ve never had a better burger than the one I had here.
  • Walk to Markthalle Neun. If all is well, this day is planned on a Thursday, because this indoor food stall market hosts “Street Food Thursday” every week.
  • Pick out some food from the many diverse food stalls, sit down and enjoy the great atmosphere.
  • Go back to your hostel and do whatever you want to do.

This is the end of my 3-day solo Berlin itinerary. Hopefully, it’s given you some ideas for things to do in Berlin ‘off the beaten track’, because the German capital is more than just Checkpoint Charlie and Brandenburger Tor.

However, a Berlin itinerary is not the only thing I’m giving you in this post. Although you could stop reading right now if you wanted to. I won’t be offended – and I’d likely never find out anyway.

Berlin city trip price breakdown

How expensive is a city trip to Berlin? How long should I save up for this trip?

Luckily for you, I kept track of literally all my expenses while I was in Berlin. So, this is not only a Berlin itinerary, but it also gives you an answer to the question “Is Berlin expensive?”

Honestly, it is quite expensive, but Berlin prices tend to be very similar to any other major western European city.

Note: I used an app called Tripcoin to keep track of my expenses. My flight to Berlin touched down at 2:30 pm on Monday and my flight back home departed in Berlin at 11:05 am.

How much does a city trip to Berlin cost?

This is everything I spent that had anything to do with my trip to Berlin.

  • Food (including breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks and drinks): €129.51
  • Travel and transport (including transport to and from the airport, flights and local public transport): €97.78
  • Accommodation: €81.00
  • Activities (including tips and entrance fees): €38
  • Miscellaneous: €11.55
  • Total: €357.84

I know this might sound like a lot, but for a 5-day solo city trip to a big city in western Europe, I’d say it could have been a lot worse.

If you want to splurge on a nice hotel and a fancy restaurant, be my guest. If you want to spend as little money as possible, be my guest. The point of travelling solo is that you can do whatever the hell you want to, so I’m not going to sit here and tell you how much money you should spend in Berlin.

I’m just giving you this information so that you can decide for yourself.

There — now you know why Berlin has become one of my favourite cities to spend time alone in Europe.

Have you ever been to Berlin? What did you think of it?

If you haven’t gone to Berlin, would you consider going there? Why (not)?

Thanks for reading!

-S

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